[travels] [activities] [the twins] [up next] [miscellaneous] [links]

///// home – travels – bhutan /////

:: B H U T A N ::

The Land of the Thunder Dragon

Yong Mahayana Buddhist from the Monk Body at Paro Rinpong Dzong

Bhutan, a beautiful and remote mountain kingdom, is by anybody’s reckoning one of the most extraordinary countries out of this world as well as one of the most mythical, complex and little-known. Landlocked between Sikkim, Tibet, and India in the folds of the eastern Himalayas this is probably the last place in the world where Mahayana Buddhist culture survives as an integral part of the everyday life. It is widely believed that Bhutan – or the Land of the Thunder Dragon, as the translation reads – is the last true, untouched Himalaya – or the last true illusion of the Himalaya. This is the land where all of its inhabitants must wear traditional dresses, where fishing is not allowed since you cannot disturb the fishes, where buying cigarettes is illegal, where electricity, paper currency and schools has just arrived (e.g. the television arrived as late as 2002), where the national dish is chilies with melted cheese, and where giant protective penises are painted at the walls of most houses.

Gigantic phallic penises are painted at the walls of most houses in Bhutan

Gigantic phallic penises are painted at the walls of most houses in Bhutan

The country has remained completely closed to foreign influence for centuries and was first opened to the world in 1974, when the first Western visitors were invited to the coronation of the Dragon King. Since then the King’s policy has been to minimize impact and to keep alive the traditional culture and pristine natural environment. Accordingly, visitors to Bhutan famously have to pay a 200 US$ visa fee per person per day to stay in the country! A 5 day visit, for instance, easily sums up to 1500 US$ when you add flights into the country. This is however a deliberate attempt to keep tourism at a low level, and it seems to work – only a few thousand visitors arrive annually. Bhutan is absolutely only a destination for the most intrepid travelers who do not mind to pay the heavy fee to experience a world informed by Buddhist principles – as long as it may last…

We went there in early August 2008 and often dream of going back. If you ever get the opportunity to go to Bhutan do not hesitate – this is Nepal for the jet set; perhaps the last true Shangri-La, well off the beaten path of mass tourism.

:: THIMPU ::

The extraordinary capital of Bhutan – like the country it has a style all of its own

Prayer flags in the Thimpu Valley; Monk at the prayer wheels at Trashicchoe Dzong

Young monks at the Dechenphodrang Monastic School; Evening prayers at the school

Local prayer woman in deep prayers at the Trashicchoe Dzong, Thimpu

// Thimpu // At 2.300m (7600 ft) Thimpu is set in a narrow, wooded valley, climbing up the hillside from the Wang Chuu River and dotted with prayer flags fluttering in the wind. Almost all buildings follow the traditional Bhutanese style with large flat roofs, highly decorated wooden balconies, and wall paintings. There are no traffic lights in Thimpu, since the Bhutanese found the traffic light too impersonal, so instead two traffic policemen taking care of the two largest (small!) intersections. At the hill above of the city stands the Trashicchoe Dzong, housing the throne of the King. The highlight is the courtyard of Trashichho Dzong, which houses the Central Secretariat of the Government and the Throne Room of the King as well as the Headquarters of the Central Monk Body. We also visited the Dechenphodrang Monastic School and got a glimpse of the life of young monks and saw the evening prayers.

:: PARO DZONGKHAG ::

The heartland of the Drukpa people and some of the most spectacular dzongs in the kingdom

Hotel Gangtay Palace; Miniature offerings in a holy cave in the Paro valley

Local prayer at the Kuychu Monastry; The vast Paro Rinpung Dzong from above

The mighty Paro Rinpung Dzong, sitting amongst paddy fields in the fertile Paro Valley

// Paro Dzongkhag // The Paro valley is one of the most loveliest in Bhutan with whitewashed country houses, green terraced fields, forested hills, willow trees, and the charming small town, Paro, at the heart of the valley. Although the town has seen some modernization you will still see that many shops have a strange latter system that provides an entry though the front window of the shop instead of a door. Highlights of the valley are the Paro Rinpung Dzong, the Zurig Dzong, the vast Kychu Monastry, We also visited a Archery tournament, a Yak Herders camp, and a typical Bhutanese farm house for local drink and tea.

:: TIGER’S NEST ::

Trekking to the most spectacular monastery in Bhutan and – perhaps – in all of the Himalayas

Tiger’s Nest coming into view in the skies; Rhesus macaques (monkeys) are spotted on the trek

Shop keeper at the spectacular lookout; Young monk living in the monastry

The Taktsang Goemba – or Tiger’s Nest – miraculously perched on the side of a sheer cliff

// Tiger’s Nest // The fabled Taktsang Goemba, also known as Tiger’s Nest, is one of the most spectacular sights in Bhutan and in all of the Himalayas. It is a holy monastery miraculously perched on the side of a sheer cliff, 900m above the Paro valley floor. It is believed that the great saint Padma Sambhava, known as the second Buddha in Bhutan, came at Taktsang in the 8^th century on a flying tigress and meditated in a cave for 3 months, thereby subduing the demons that were trying to stop the spread of Buddhism. The saint then converted the Paro Valley into a Buddhist region. Beforehand we had obtained a special permit to enter the temple and see the many rooms and chapels – truly unforgettable!

:: DECHENSHHOLING and TANGO HILL ::

The fertile valleys in the North and one of the most renowned Buddhist colleges

Deschenshholing; Painting inside the Tango Goempa

Empty seat in the Buddhist College; Monk in deep contemplation

The vast Tango Goempa hidden deeply in the mountains

// Deschenshholing and Tango Hill // As you travel up the east side of the Wang Chhu river you will reach the Deschenshholing Palace and further north of Thimpu you will find the Tango Goempa. The latter is a renowned Buddhist College build in the 12^th century, and is also the residence of the Druk Desi Gyaltsen Tenzin Rabgye who is the reincarnate of a famous 16^th century monk. “Tango” means horse-head named after the horse-head-like rock formation on the side of the temple. To reach the Buddhist college in the Tango Hill you will have to hike for a couple of hours though a forest, but it’s all worth it.

:: DOCHU LA PASS and PUNAKHA DZONGKHAG ::

This tranquil landscape is Bhutan’s sacred heart, containing many of its most revered temples

108 chortens in the Dochu La Pass; Young monks performing during a puja at the Punakha Dzong

Painting inside the Punakha Dzong; The Punakha Dzong at the intersection of Moo Chhu and Pho Chhu rivers

Courtyard facade inside the Punakha Dzong

// Dochu La Pass and Punakha Dzongkhag// At 3140 m, the Dochu La pass separates the Paro valley and Thimpu valley from Eastern Bhutan, and it offers a panoramic view of the Bhutan Himalaya. It is marked by a large array of prayer flags and an impressive collection of 108 chortens (mini-temples). The Punakha valley is fertile, warm and beautiful, with the mighty Punakha Dzong sitting at the intersection of the two rivers, the Mo Chhu and the Pho Chhu. The Punakha Dzong is arguably the most impressive and beautiful in all of Bhutan and the winter residence of Bhutan’s spiritual leader, the Head Abbot, and the Central Monastic Body.

:: LOBESA VALLEY and CHI-MED LHAKHANG ::

A valley filled with serene forests of bamboo, rhododendrons and pine

Drying chilies at a roof top; House along the trek to the Chi-Med Lhakhang in the Lobesa Valley

Local monk at the Chi-Med Lhakhang; Prayer wheels are doing their job

Local woman prayer at the Chi-Med Lhakhang, remotely placed in the Lobesa Valley

// Lobesa Valley and Chi-Med Lhakhang // In the Lobesa valley you will find Chi-Med Lakhang, the house of the Devinde Madman, Bhutan’s favorite saint. Following a trail though rice fields, through the tiny settlement of Pana, and down the Yoaka stream you will reach the Chi-Med Lhakhang. There a few monks at the temple, but a lot of local prayers. Inside the temple we were blessed by the monk, who placed a gigantic wooden penis at our head and whispered some verse. It is said to boost fertility!

:: WANGDUE PHODRANG DZONGKHAG ::

The heartland of Indonesia

The Wangdue Phodrang atop a hill; Young monks relaxing at the entrance

Courtyard façade at the Wangdue Phodrang; Young monk is somewhat curious of foreigners

The courtyard of the Wangdue Phodrang

// Wangdue Phodrang Dzongkhag // The scenic and impressive temple complex of Wangdue Phodrang is centered atop a hill and a small town of whitewashed wooden shops that stretches towards the Phobjikha valley. It is obvious that the site was selected for its commanding view of the valley, and it is one of the most inviting places in all of Bhutan. The complex has three large structures with wooden roofs and large stones. Young monks and lost chickens are wandering across the vast courtyards, adding to its very authentic atmosphere.

:: RICHENGANG ::

One of the oldest villages in Bhutan with traditional architecture and delightful local people

View towards the small Richengang village across the river; Old dzong atop Richengang village

Woman stacking hey atop her house in the village; Children are curious and tailing us along the way

View of the “main street” of Richengang village, where a boy seems to be doing his homework

// Richengang // While you may think that the urban centres of Paro or Thimpu seem traditional try to visit some of the more remote villages, where an ancient way of life has remained unchanged for generations and where walking is the vital mode of transport. Richengang is such a village, where many work as stonemasons and original craftsmen of dzongs and lhakhans. Richengang is believed to be one of the oldest in Bhutan, electricity, water and schools arrived here in the 1990s!

Future places to go and activities to undertake in Bhutan

- The Haa Valley in West Bhutan

- The Bumthang Valley in Central Bhutan

- Participate in the Ura Festival in Shingkhar, in the Black Mountains

- The Mangde Chuu Valley in Central Bhutan

- Trashigang, Lhuentse, and Khoma in Eastern Bhutan

- The Jhomolhari trek, Western Bhutan

- The Rodang La trek, Eastern Bhutan

- Ultimately, the 25-day (and thus 5000 US$ fee) Snowman trek, Northern Bhutan

Local kids in Richengang village, Bhutan

Fast facts and hints

Daily budget: There is a 200 US$ visa fee per person per day! When you add tickets from India, as its mandatory to fly in, a 5-day visit easily sums up to 1500 US$.

Pros: The true, untouched Himalaya fund almost nowhere; Their national dish: Chillies with cheese; Friendly people; Extremely authentic culture

Cons: Extremely expensive; However, the price for preserving such a unique culture

In a nutshell: The last Shangri-La; The last true illusion of the Himalaya; The Land of the Thunder Dragon

///// home – travels – bhutan /////