[travels] [activities] [the twins] [up next] [miscellaneous] [links]

///// home – travels – pakistan /////

:: P A K I S T A N ::

The Karakoram Highway and the Northern Areas in Pakistani Kashmir

Due to Western Government’s biased advice and brainless media spotlight, Pakistan has a rumor of being an extremely dangerous travel destination that only foolish-hearted risk-seekers might want to visit. Nothing, however, could be further from the truth! Sure, Pakistan is a hard-line Islamic nation with a precarious law-and-order situation, and there are a few wild, off-limit regions, but this is only one layer of an amazingly multilayered country. Pakistan, as a travel destination, is untouched, uncrowded, welcoming, warm-hearted and mind-opening. If you get here once, all you think about is when to return. In recent times, Pakistan has become a travel destination only for the truly intrepid, and the sense of adventure is ever-apparent as soon as you cross the border into this magnificent country.

Anders visited Pakistan in 2008 for three weeks, travelling from Lahore in the Phunjerab region to the Khunjerab Pass in the north, in Kashmir, along the legendary Karakoram Highway.

:: Big cities – Lahore, Rawalpindi & Islamabad ::

Lahore is Pakistan’s cultural, intellectual and artistic hub, with an evocative mix of Mughal and British Raj monuments. The enigmatic Old City is a brilliant place to get lost, among the narrow alleys surrounded by a 9m high wall and the foot of Lahore Fort and Badshahi Mosque. Rawalpindi and Islamabad are twin cities, but nevertheless they have distinct personalities. Rawalpindi grew from a backwater village to a sprawling hub two centuries ago. Islamabad, on the other hand, is modern and suburban with wide avenues and vast parks.

:: On the road – Travelling along the Karakoram Highway ::

In 1986, the highest asphalted road in the world, the Karakoram Highway, was opened. Within the reach of KKH is some of the most breathtaking mountain scenery anywhere, as the road cuts through the collision zone of the Indian and Asian continents. The Karakoram, placed mainly in Pakistan and India, and the Hindukush, extending from Afghanistan, mark the western end of the great mountain system of South and Central Asia. These ranges form the greatest concentration of high peaks on the planet, and in the valleys beneath them are massive glaciers, an extensive network of rivers, and far-flung villages.

:: Gilgit Region ::

Gilgit Town is the administrative headquarters of the Northern Areas and hub of the KKH. As a town, it offers a kaleidoscope of people in the lively bazaar – Uyghurs, Wakhis, Burushos, Khos, Pashtos, Balit-pa, Gujars, and Dards, you will meet them all. Perhaps more interestingly, the major Muslim branches – Shiite, Sunni and Ismaili – overlap here. This is also the place to arrange trekking, transport and to mingle with other intrepid travelers.

:: Trekking in the Karakoram – Rakaposhi Base Camp & Diran Base Camp ::

Pakistan is a heaven for mountain lovers! An undiscovered gem where you can walk for days without ever seeing another trekker. This trek starts in Minapin Village and climbs to the meadows of Hapakun base camp. From here, the trail ascend to Rakaposhi base camp (4000m), overlooking, on your left-hand side, the Minapin glaciers upper ice fields and, on you right-hand side, the Rakaposhi peak (7788m). Finally, a strenuous crossing of the broad glacier brings us to Diran base camp (4300m) at the foot of Diran Peak (7257m).

:: Naltar Valley ::

The green and forested Naltar valley receives more rainfall than other areas, and its alpine scenery is a refreshing change in the sometimes infertile Karakoram. Naltar villagers are extremely poor and live in small wooden shelters in the forest. Yet, they are extremely welcoming. Most of the guides who know the valleys around Gilgit call this one the loveliest.

:: Nagyr Valley & Hunza Valley – the lost Shangri-La ::

These two valleys are the centerpiece of the KKH. Above the green and carefully cultivated fields of Hunza and Nagyr soars 7788m high Rakaposhi. The valley’s friendly Ismaili people and its breathtaking landscape have always impressed visitors. Early 20^th century explorers found in Hunza the isolated and lost Shangri-La of their romantic dreams.

:: Gojal and the upper Hunza River – Gulmit, Passu, Sost & Afiyatabad ::

Gojal is the area along the upper Hunza River, from Shishkut to the Khunjerab Pass, populated by Xik people. The green and pleasant villages of Gojal offers stunning views of towering peaks and spires, and a peaceful place to rest and contemplate. Gulmit is the closest thing to a town in Gojal and nearby jade-green Borit Lake is a set in a surreal setting. Passu is know for is dramatic views as well as suspension bridges leading to remote villages in the mountains. Sost is an entry point for the Khunjerab National Park, and Afiyatabad (New Sost) is a frenetic, frontier travel hub for Chinese traders.

:: Khunjerab Pass – on the border with China ::

The Khunjerab pass separates Pakistan and China, as well as the Pamirs and the Karakoram ranges, and as this point you are app. 400km from Kashgar and 880m from Islamabad. The road from Sost to the Khunjerab Pass offers the worst roads on the KKH, but also some of the narrowest and most dramatic gorges. Along the way to the pass, the valley walls are black crumbling rock (this is how Kara Koram translates) and the river cuts deep. At 4800m, the Khunjerab Pass itself is long and flat.

Future places to go in Pakistan

Pakistan is a vast country and there is a lot to see! We could easily spend 1-3 months more, trying to cover all the provinces – or 6 months to a lifetime, doing some trekking in the breathtaking Karakoram, Hindu Kush and Pamir ranges.

Regions that we want to visit include: Chitral, Swat, NWFP, Baltistan & K2-region, Baluchistan, and Sindh.

Fast facts and hints on Pakistan

Daily budget: On the cheap: 5-10 US$; More activities and transport: 10-25 US$; Flights are expensive

Pros: An untouched, uncrowded gem; Warm-blooded and welcoming people; No hassles whatsoever

Cons: Sectarian violence rests just under the surface almost everywhere; Earthquakes are no unheard-off

In a nutshell: It has a bad rumour and is submersed in stupid media clichés; The KKH is a legendary “must-do” trip for the truly intrepid; Home to the lost Shangri-La

///// home – travels – pakistan /////

© Copyright 2007 - Now

TravelTwins.dk – All rights reserved.