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:: Ruins,
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Äit
Benhaddou - آيت بن حدّو
Panorama of Äit Benhaddou,
Morocco, 2007
Who haven’t seen Lawrence of Arabia
(1962), The Jewel of the Nile (1985), The Mummy (1999), Gladiator (2000) or
Alexander (2004)? These are just 5 out of 10 large Hollywood movies
displaying scenes shot in Äit Benhaddou. It is an alluring, mystical
and historical place and walking the narrow streets of the Islamic city is
like being pulled a couple of centuries back in history.
Äit Benhaddou is a fortified city or ksar
on the earlier caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh. It is
located in the region of Souss-Masaa-Draâ on a hill along the
Ouarzazate River. A ksar, or quasr in Arabic, is a village consisting of
generally attached houses that share some granaries and other structures,
e.g. mosque, bath, oven, shops, etc. Ksars are typically located in
mountain locations to make defense easier, as in the case of Äit
Benhaddur beneath the Atlas Mountains. Ksars a common among the oasis populations
of the North-African Maghreb people.
 
The highway
between Marrakesh and Oazazate View atop the ksar of Äit Benhaddou
We went there from Marakkesh on our way to the
Dadés Valley. From Marrakesh we departed with the local bus towards
Ouazazate and jumped of at the highway approximately 10 km from Äit
Benhaddou. After enjoying some quick espresso coffee-shots at a small road
side café, we hailed a shared taxi and paid ridiculously few money for
the ride. As we got there, we made a deal with the driver to wait for us a
couple of hours and subsequently drive us to Ouazazate.
 
Beautiful kasbahs in Äit Benhaddou
Local girl in one of the mud labyrinths
The ksar of Äit Benhaddou also display
some beautiful Kasbahs – that is a unique kind of Islamic city or
fortress. The kasbahs in Äit Benhaddou all have high walls, and one is
located atop the central hill top while others are scattered around in the
labyrinth-like Islamic city. The many kashbahs in Äit Benhaddu display
times of great wealth, and many families were living in them. The kashbahs
are made of mud, and henve they get damaged each rainstorm.
  
Entrance to a house
Typical Berber clothing
Invitation to a glass of mint tea
Most of the Äit Benhaddou’s inhabitants now live in a more
modern village at the other side of the river. Nevertheless, ten families
still live within the ksar, and we got to visit one of them. A divorced
mother and here single son invited us inside their modest home for a glass of
mint tea and friendly chatting. Luckily, they didn’t begin showing
carpets, as we had experienced a number of different places.
Friendly mother in her home
Äit Benhaddou – once again
The Atlas Mountains in the background
View of Äit Benhaddou from the dried out river
Moulay Idriss
Zerhoun - مولاي إدريس
The holy city of Moulay Idriss
Zerhoun, beneath the Zerhoun hills, Morocco, 2007
Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is one of the best-known spiritual
centers of Morocco, situated on the edge of a vast plain that slopes down
from the Zerhoun hills. It is an extremely picturesque and charming city,
offering beautiful views and a genuine central Moroccan atmosphere. Moulay
Idriss founded nearby Fes and the city that bears his name. It is located
near the magnificent Volubilis Ruins, which were also founded by Moulay
Idriss.
 
Local school in the city
Beautifully decorated mosque
The saint of Mulay Idriss, or Idriss Ibn Abdullah, was the
first ruler and founder of the Idrisid Dynasty, ruling from 788 CE to 791
CE. Moulay Idriss was not even born in Morocco but was born in Abbasids,
the dynastic name of the caliphate of Baghdad. Abbadis was a mighty dynasty
that spread across North Africa, the Middle East, the Arabian Peninsula and
Persia.
The Idrisid Dynasty and Empire, 788-995 CE
 Moulay first conquered territory in the north of Morocco and
got recognized by the Awraba Berber tripe. This lead to the birth of both
the Idridis Dynasty as well as the birth of Morocco. Moulay Idriss then
conquered Tlemcen – all of modern day Algeria – and in 792 CE
he was poisoned and murdered by an emissary from the Abbasid caliphate of
Baghdad. This Persian dynasty clearly wanted revenge after Moulay
Idriss’ Morocco became independent from the caliphate of Baghdad.
 
Local old man
Local old woman
The Idrisid state became the most significant power in Morocco,
and under Mohammad (828-836) the kingdom was divided amongst eight
brothers. Of course, this incident lead to power struggles and weakening of
the Idrisid Empire. Later on, the Fatimid dynasty and their Miknasa allies
attacked Morocco and the Idrisids were driven from Fez and, furthermore,
control was given to Miknasa. After 926 CE the Idrisids abandoned Fes and
withdrew to the valleys of the Rif Mountains.
 
The city offers a genuine
Moroccan atmosphere
The “classical” view of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun
V O L U B I L I S - وليلي
The Arch of Triumph and House of
Columns – Morocco, 2007
Volubilis, otherwise Walili or Oualili in
Arabic as in the name of the Oleander plant, is an archaeological site
situated in the prefecture of Meknés-El Menzeh in the
Meknés-Fafilaet region. More precisely, it is situated on the edge
of a vast plain that slopes down from the Zerhoun hills on a triangular
plateau between the valleys of the Oueds Fertassa and Khoumane. Volubilis
is listet a UNESCO World Heritage site and features the best preserved
excavations, dating from the Roman Empire, in this part of Northern Africa.
The Zerhoun hills and the Capitoline Temple,
Morocco, 2007
As it is located in a rather remote valley, I
had to charter a taxi for half a day in Meknes. Together with four others,
whom I met in my hostel, we had to pay 40 US$ for half a day. From Meknes
the drive is around 45 minutes to 1 hour. Make sure to visit the holy city
of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun on the way – this is not to be missed if you
are in the area and have a taxi!
The Judiciary Basilicaand and view towards the
Khoumane Valley, Morocco, 2007
The Arch of Triumph and House of Columns, Morocco,
2007
Volubilis was an important Roman settlement
located on the westernmost border of Roman conquests. It is said that
Volubilis was built about 40 A.D. on the site of a previous Carthaginian
settlement from the 3rd century B.C., a so-called
quasi-hereditary magistrate held by four generations of a Mauritanian
family. Thus, the early Volubilis site was part of a dynasty of Mauritanian
kings. Nevertheless, in 40 C.E. the independent kingdom of Mauretania was
brought to an end by the Roman army, and the old kingdom was divided in
two, Mauretania Caesariensis to the east (with its capital at
Casesarea/Cherchel in Algeria) and Mauretania Tingitana to the west (with
its capital at Tingi/Tangiers). Volubilis was then elevated to the rank of
municipium, governed by duumvirs (annual magistrates) instead of suffetes.
The Civic City and The Forum, Morocco, 2007
In
168-169, under the emperor Marcus Aurelius, city walls were constructed,
including eight monumental gates flanked by towers. Further additions came
under the Severans, when a new monumental center was created, including the
Capitoline temple, built by the emperor Macrinus in 218 C.E., the civil
basilica and the reorganized Forum. The Arch of Triumph dates to the
emperor Caracalla, of the same dynasty. It celebrates his grant of Roman
citizenship and tax relief.
Volubilis encompassed temples, baths, civic buildings, aqueducts, shops,
bakers, and oil pressing complexes. The private houses were rich with
mosaics, and some of them can still be seen today. The city of Volubilis
was favored by its well-defended position and the abundance of water in the
two surrounding valleys. Furthermore, the plains were ideal for cereal
agriculture and arboriculture, particularly olives. 58 oil-pressing
structures are known from Volubilis, distributed throughout the town, and
the oil was exported to Rome.
Leftovers
from the Palace of Gordian – Morocco, 2007
Volubilis
was abandoned in the Almoravid period, in the eleventh century.
Furthermore, most of the ruins were damaged by the Lisbon-earthquake in
1755, and in the 18th century part of the marble was taken for
constructions in Meknes. Archaeological excavations began in 1915 by the
French and continue to this day. They have exposed a large part of the town
(more than 20 ha.), but much remains to be excavated, particularly in the
area occupied in the post-Roman period. As regards to the early medieval
history of North Africa, a complex series of questions remain unanswered,
we maybe can be answered by excavations. E.g. questions on the urbanism of
the eighth century town, its economy and public buildings, as well as its
subsequent history.
Views towards the House of Disciplinae, and the
Court of Law and Seat of the Magistrates, Morocco, 2007
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