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:: S Y R I A ::

Among Bedouins in the Syrian Desert bordering Iraq

‘Ahlan wa Sahlan’… ‘Hello and welcome’ was what we constantly heard from hundreds of men during the early hours in a Damascene suburb; we had been in Syria for only a few hours and killed the time with an obligatory cigarette and a hot cup of shei near a street vendor at the Baramke bus station outside Damascus, waiting for the first 5:30 AM bus out of town.

Syria is an extremely interesting country with a past that dates back to some of the first human civilizations. The ancient region which makes up modern-day Syria has been colonized, fought over and ruled by almost every great empire from the Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans to the Babylonians, Byzantines, Persians, Umayyads, Crusaders, Mamluks, Mongols and Ottomans Turks. Today the somewhat increasingly isolated country is ruled by the new generation al-Assad who seem to balance between American and international pressure and national expectancy to sustain the hardline attitude against Israel. But one thing remains clear after a visit: Syria is not an evil regime!

Syria is, with its past, a multicultural country and the people are exceptionally hospitable and polite. Add in ancient ruins, medieval souqs, Islamic architecture, the fertile Mediterranean coast, towering mountains and the vast desert and it all adds up to a premier cultural destination which will make you wanna come back.

Regions visited

Jakob have spent more than a week in Syria in December 2007. There is an extremely well-functioning myriad of transport opportunities which make fast and cheap travel possible. The north was covered in three hectic days and the south and the desert in five days. Night travel was difficult so he spent one third of the days traveling. Highlights were visited during daytime and in the evenings he connected with the locals at the omnipresent coffeehouses to play backgammon and smoke the imperative sheesa.

:: The Syrian Desert ::

The Desert towards Tigris River and Iraq and the Roman City of Palmyra

Palmyra – Ancient ruins in the Syrian desert and Syria’s prime historical attraction

Tadmur – The pleasant and sleepy oasis town close to Palmyra ruins.

Syrian Desert – Vast and rocky desert inhabited by semi-nomadic Bedouins

:: The North ::

A mix of cultural highlights; Ancient Aleppo, Mud houses and Crusader Castles

Aleppo –Historical city with one of the most bustling souqs in the Middle East

Antisariya Mountains – The fertile North-South barrier between the coast and the desert

Sarouj Beehive Houses – Is this Central Africa? No, we’re in the Orontes Valley

Qal’ at al Hosn / Krak des Chevalliers – The finest Crusader castle in the world

:: The South

The fabled and old city of Damascus and the arid highway to Jordan

Damascus – Mythical and magical Arabic and Oriental city

The Highway to Jordan – The desert takes over when

approaching the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

Fast facts and hints about Syria

Daily budget: On the cheap: 5-10$; More activities and transport: 15-20$; Street-shawarma: 50 cent

Pros: Amazingly cheap; intellectual society; delicious cuisine; easy transport; big antiquity markets

Cons: Everybody seems to smoke everywhere; frustrating Visa-officers at the borders

In a nutshell: Young soldiers everywhere; people who ask questions all the time; tremendous friendliness

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