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///// home – travels – palau /////
:: Republic of P A L A U ::
An island nation in the Pacific
subregion of Micronesia
View towards the Rock Islands from high point
on Malakal Island
The tightly clustered islands which compromise
the tiny-tiny nation called Palau
are situated just above the Equator north of New
Guinea and east of the Philippines. Palau is comprised of more than three
hundred raised coral islands as well as several atolls which rise steeply
from the empty and remote Pacific Ocean.
The huge body of islands, including the world famous Rock Islands and the
larger inhabited islands to the north, all gather within a an expansive
turquoise-colored lagoon, enclosed by a barrier reef more than 70 miles/110
km long. P
Palau is one of the most extraordinary diving spots
in the world; the barrier reef enclose spectacular, unspoiled coral reefs
flanking the Rock Islands but most action happens at the fringes of the
barrier reef where steep underwater walls, drop-offs, blue holes, huge
caves and tunnels can be visited. Due to Palau’s remote position
in open waters and the fact that the archipelago is a crossroads of three
major ocean currents, vast numbers of migratory fishes and pelagic
predators gather around the reefs.
Add in unique Micronesian culture, traditional
village life, jungle scenery, warm-hearted locals, and numerous World War
II remains above and under the ocean surface, and Palau becomes one of the most alluring
places to visit in Oceania. Hell, even
though the population is only 20.000, Palau has its very own brewed
beer!
In mid-July 2008, Jakob and his girlfriend made a
hop from the Philippines
and visited Palau
for 8 days in perfect weather. And even though he used most of his time
with a dive tank on his back, exploring all the greatest dive spots around
the Rock Islands, he found time to sip the juice from the mildly narcotic
betel nut on a tour to the remote Southern island called Peleliu which
hides numerous WWII remains, and to circle the large jungle-clad Babeldoab
Island to suck in the rural island atmosphere and visit several cultural
and historical sites.
:: Koror and Malakal Islands ::
Koror, Malakal and Ngerekebesang islands are
tightly connected by bridges and comprise the hub of Palau. Most people in the
country live in Koror, the capital. The islands are situated at the outset
of the Rock Islands, an archipelago of almost
three hundred limestone islands, which stretch southwards into a
barrier-reef enclosed lagoon. Koror offers most accommodations, restaurants
and shopping. We stayed at an economical motel, the Malakal
Plaza, in Malakal closer to the Rock Islands. There’s not much
going on in sleepy Koror – most things happen in the Rock Islands or underwater. Furthermore,
the cultural and natural highlights are found elsewhere in the archipelago,
e.g. on Babeldaob Island to the north or Peleliu Island
to the south. There’s a fine beach on Malakal if you want a relaxed
day doing nothing.
 
Street in Koror with a laid back
island-atmosphere and map of Palau displayed by local dive guide
Sunset over Rock
Islands seen from Malakal Bay
at Sam’s Tours,
a greatly located dive operator
 
Dolphins and the only beach at Malakal Island
View across the isthmus in which
Malakal township is built with
:: The Rock Islands ::
The picturesque 300 or more Rock
Islands are Palau’s major trademark.
The limestone seascape was formed millions ago as tectonic forces pulled
coral reef out the oceans, and today the isles comprise a complex network
of high ridges and steep rock mountains perforated by clear lagoons and
narrow channels. All the rock islands are densely covered by plant life and
inhabited by a diverse plethora of life form, many of them unique to Micronesia.
A boat or canoeing trip through the islands is a must when visiting Palau
and it will reveal several beautiful white sand beaches perfect for
hideaway picnics and lagoons with magnificent clarity offering superb
snorkeling.
Jellyfish Lake, or Ongeim’l Tketau, is one of several
marine lakes scattered throughout the southern portion of the Rock Islands. The lake is separated from
the lagoons between several isles by sharp and high limestone ridges and a
short walk through a rocky terrain is needed to get to the lake. Visiting
the marine lake is probably one of the most spectacular experiences which
can be offered in the Pacific, offering the visitor to snorkel among more
than 5 million golden jellyfishes which inhabit the lake. Unique to the
lake is that evolution has shaped the jellyfishes to be stingless because
of a lack of minute animals supplemental to their diet besides algae. The
only other place in the world where one can swim in a marine lake packed
with stingless jellyfishes is in the awfully remote Kakaban
Island, part of the Derawan Atolls
in Eastern Kalimantan, Indonesian
Borneo.
Some of the Rock Islands,
or isles, are really small, others are huge like mountains
 
Bridge at one of the lakes enclosed
in the Rock Islands
and paradisiacal Three
Palms Beach
This is not a swimming pool but the clear
waters at the Rock Islands – here close to Carp Island
Risong bay with glassy waters and
corals just beneath the surface
 
Jellyfish lake snorkeling and split
shot of a jellyfishes approaching the lake surface
Resting at remote and untouched Ulong Island between two dives
:: Babeldaob Island ::
Babeldaob, located northeast of Koror, is the
largest island in Palau.
Unlike the smaller limestone Rock
Islands and Koror,
Babeldaob is mountainous and volcanic. Mangrove forests border all but a few
stretches of the coastline which have nice and empty sand beaches. The
island, which make up two thirds of the total land mass, is heavily
forested by native rain forest and hides freshwater lakes, rivers and
waterfalls in the jungle. From all high points on the island there’s
a nice view towards the barrier reef which surrounds the island from the
rough Pacific. A small road winds around the island which connects the
rural households and communities with “urban” Koror. Touring
the island in a car is an interesting experience and in one long day you
can visit the odd stone monoliths in the very north of Babeldaob, one of
the waterfalls, several villages along the empty beaches, a number of WII
remains, the capitol complex in Melekok, and the traditional men’s
meeting houses along the East coast.
Empty and pristine beaches which
reminded me of the Andaman Islands –
perfect for hideaway-lovers
 
Path leading to monoliths with view
to the barrier reef and smiling Palauan woman
 
Waterfalls are hidden in the deep
jungle on Babeldaob
Island
Mysterious stone monoliths and stone
faces with an inexplicable origin in the very north of Babeldaob
 
The giant in Karaeru and a the
Melekeok bai, a traditional
men’s meeting house
:: Peleliu Island ::
During World
War II, Palau
was the location for several fierce battles between the Japanese and the
Allies. Today, remnants from the war can be found underwater as well as on
the ground. Peleliu Island, which is remotely positioned at the end
of the barrier reef, south of the Rock
Islands, is probably the best
place to visit WWII remains in Palau. The island, which is
like an open museum, is crammed with WWII stuff left in the spooky jungle
as it has not been touched since the war. Peleliu was the scene of some of
bloodiest battles – more than 20.000 people died on Peleliu. A
special atmosphere is all pervading when visiting the different remains and
especially the Japanese headquarters, a bunker deep in the jungle.
Today, the quit, laid-back and friendly island has 700
or so inhabitants and the prime occupation on the island seems to be betel
nut chewing.
 
Waterway through the reefs leading to
Peleliu Island which is like an open museum
from WWII
Kloulklubed Beach at the only real village on
the island
 
Betel not anyone? And looking through
the cockpit of a jungle-clad Japanese zero-fighter from WWII
 
Japanese headquarters during WWII and
Orange Beach where bloody naval battles were fought
More WWII remains around the remote
and spooky trails on the densely forested island of Peleliu
This is apparently car no. 35 on Peleliu Island – the land of
enchantment
:: Diving in Palau
::
Palau is one of the
underwater wonders of the world. More than 1500 fishes inhabit the waters
around Palau,
including many shark species, turtles, dolphins, mantas, the occasional
whale shark, barracudas and many other species of migratory fish. There are
extremely different dive sites ranging from WII wrecks, deep caves,
underwater tunnels, blue holes, speedy go-with-the-flow channels,
drop-offs, current-strong corners with reef hooks, breathtaking reefs,
jellyfish lakes, steep walls, and remote mangroves with saltwater crocodiles.
As an American intrepid diver told us the first day: If you’re an
80/80 diver (80 feet visibility and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (25m and 27
Celcius)) you’re gonna love it. Often the visibility was as good as
40m – this is diving at its best!
We dived some of the best places in the world which
are famous among intrepid divers: ‘Blue Corner’, the most
requested dive in Palau,
a dive site where you use reef hooks to attach to the seafloor against the
current and stare into the deep blue to be greeted by loads of grey reefs
sharks. We even saw a huge bull shark on that dive! Another dive,
‘Peleliu Wall’, an abrupt 300m drop that starts in about 3m of
water, is one of the wildest dives in Palau, and one of the best wall
dives in the world. ‘Blue Hole´ is an extremely cool dive where
you descent deeply trough a narrow and small hole in the shallow reef which
empty into a vast interconnected cave and cavern system which, in the end,
open into the deep blue. ‘Ulong Channel’ is an ideal drift
dive: A 45 min joyride through a technicolor and shark-filled reef canyon
where you can be carried by the current in an excess of 10 mph / 16 km/h.
But, the most extraordinary and unforgettable dive was ‘Siaes Tunnel’, a dive
trough a deep underwater reef tunnel which starts at a sheer wall at 27m
and stretches 50m. The inside is a huge cavern ranging in depth from 35 to
50m. The walls and the roof are covered by beautiful soft and hard corals,
and huge deepsea gorgonian fans.
We can only recommend Sam’s Tours for diving: Nice gear, speedy
boats, friendly and professional crew, perfect lunches, nice afterdive bar,
good tours, and a relaxed attitude. They make whatever program you
want!
 
Diving with Sam’s Tours in the Rock
Islands and outer reefs was the
absolute highlight of visiting Palau
Every day we took different routes
through the Rock
Islands on our way to
different dive locations
 
Submerged Japanese zero fighter from
World War II and coral fringing a rock
island
Future places to go in Palau
Palau is a small
country and in a week you can manage to visit most places listed on this
page. But, if you want to visit remoter islands to witness very traditional
village life more time is needed. If Jakob ever gets to Palau again, which
he sincerely hopes, e.g. on a future island hopping trough Micronesia and
Kiribati, he will take time to visit Angaur Island, situated south of
Peleliu Island beyond of the barrier reef, which boasts huge blow holes and
is home to the only feral monkeys in Micronesia. If time allows for it (2-3
weeks needed), a home-stay at a Palauan family in the remote Kayangel Atoll
north of Babeldoab would spice every vacation culturally and reveal how
daily life takes place on a far-flung atoll in the Pacific.
Fast
facts and hints on Palau
Daily
budget: On
the cheap: Not possible; With budget accommodation: 120-150 US$; Two tank dives: 125 US$; Getting there from Manila:
400 US$
one way (ouch!)
Pros: Untouched and a natural paradise;
Very few tourist; More than 100 mindblowing dive sites in +100 feet (+30 m)
visibility
Cons: Getting there is
ridiculously expensive; The only decompression chamber is non-functional so
dive safe; The weather can be unstable
In a
nutshell:
American and Jap food, betel nut addicts, everyone in Palau seems to know each
other
///// home – travels – palau /////
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