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– sulawesi /////
:: S U L A W E S I ::
Sulawesi,
formerly commonly know as Celebes, is the world’s eleventh-largest
island and an archipelago of stunning coastlines, mountain scenery and diverse
cultures. The island is surrounded by Indonesian Borneo (Kalimantan) to the
west, Philippino Mindanao to the North, Maluku to the east and Nusa
Tenggara to the south. The island has a distinctive shape, dominated by
four large peninsulas, but more formally the island is subdivided into six
provinces: North, Gorantalo, Central, West, South, and Southeast. In 2006,
Anders spend five weeks crossing Sulawesi from Bunaken in the north to
Makassar in the south via Manado, Bunaken Island, Tomohon & Minahasa
Highland, Gorontalo, The Togian Islands, Ampana, Tentena, Poso Lake,
Pendolo and Rantepao.
Manado
 
// Manado // Some say that Manado is not
very pretty, swarmed with traffic and half-baked developments. Nevertheless,
people here a talkative and friendly, and you can easily spend some days
strolling around and doing boat trips along the superb coast.
Tomohon & the
Minahasa highland
 
// Tomohon & Miniahasa highland // Placed deep
in the Minahasa Highlands, comprising three major volcanoes, Tomohon is a
pleasant village. The Minahasans are Christians and, thus, according to the
Muslims, they’ll eat everything: Cats, dogs, rats, frut-bats, insects
etc.
Bunaken Islands
National Park
 
// Bunaken Island // According to many
professional divers, the Bunaken Islands National Park offers some of the
best wall-diving in Indonesia and in the world. You’ll have to go all
the way to Papua or PNG to find as excellent diving as here. Add to the experience
a view of three volcanoes, two of them active, on the mainland.
Gorontalo
 
// Gorantalo // Announced in 2001, the
province of Gorantalo is the youngest province in all of Indonesia. The
capital of the same name is still ramshackle, long-standing, and behind the
times of other Indonesian metropolis. Nevertheless, it’s quite charming
and you’ll need to go here if you want to hit the Togeans.
Visit our page on:
:: Togean Islands ::
 
:: Togean Islands :: Unheard-off, far-flung and hard to reach,
the Togeans does not receive many travelers. Yet, the ones who actually
manage to get here are rewarded with magical island-hopping, amazing
diving, great sea-food, and a view into the daily lifestyle of the local Bajo
sea-gypsy nomads.
Ampana & Poso Lake
 
// Ampana & Poso Lake // Tragically, the Poso
region in Central Sulawesi has fell into a cycle of unrest and sectarian
violence with bombings, kidnappings and killings. This is sad as the region
has a lot to offer, e.g. beautiful lakes, vast National Parks, and
interesting people.
Tana Toraja
 
// Tana Toraja // The unique traditions, elaborate
architecture and blood-spilling funeral ceremonies of the Toraja people is
a must if you get this far! You can easily spend a week around the Rantepao
Valley, visiting villages, trekking and crashing in on funerals. Come in
August as this is the funeral
month.
Makassar/Ujung Padang
 
// Ujung Padang // The Makassarese and Bugis
people of the fart south around Ujung Padang is worth a visit. Today, Ujung
Padang is a somewhat cosmopolitan, tolerant and secure – i.e. typical
– Indonesian metropolis that offers good food and accommodation before-
or after – your trip into Central Sulawesi.
On travelling to
Sulawesi and the security situation
Unfortunately Sulawesi has a violent history and you may have to be
a pretty experienced backpacker to go there. Different travel warnings
exemplify the “public” or authoritarian opinion.
United States Department of State (July,
2006):
“Avoid travel to
Central, South and Southeast Sulawesi; those considering going travelling
to north Sulawesi should exercise extreme caution. Sporadic violence
occurred in Poso and in neighbouring areas in Central Sulawesi in 2003 and
2004 resulting in several fatalities. Central Sulawesi’s general
security situation remains unstable; bombings and killings occurred in late
2004 and 2005 in Poso and Palu”
Lonely Planet (November, 2003):
“Travel to Poso region
in Central Sulawesi is not recommended, due to continued unrest and
violence; however, safe parts of some these areas are still possible. It
pays to keep abreast of news if travelling extensively in Indonesia”
UK Government Travel Advice (July, 2006):
“There remains a high
threat from terrorism in Indonesia. Attacks could occur at any time,
anywhere. We advise against all travel to Central Sulawesi Province. There
continues to be intermitted violence and sectarian clashes in this area. In
October 2005 a group of Christians were attacked near Poso and were
beheaded”
“Terrorists Wanted”
sign at a post office in Tentena, Central Sulawesi (year of 2006)
500.000.000
Rupiah equals 50.300 UD$, 40.200 EUR, 27.100 £ or 300.000 DKR
Much
of this, however, is nonsense and brainless media attention! I didn’t
take any extraordinary precautions and I
didn’t experience any danger except from mad driving which is almost
imperative in Indonesia and other South East Asian countries. In the
Togeans, locals told me not to take public transport as an Italian got
executed in a bus by aggressive Muslims on the public bus from Ampana to
Poso. This happens very rarely, and due to the above-mentioned I decided to
do the nine hour car ride from Ampana to Tentena through Poso in a private
car during night time. Apart from tiredness the trip went very well and
nothing seemed risky at all. In retrospect, I would have taken the bus
instead.
In fact, I didn’t experience any socially unpleasant thing
during my stay in Sulawesi but instead the genuine Indonesian friendliness,
kindness, hospitality and curiosity. The only little annoying thing I
experienced was the Indonesian “hello mister” fatigue due to
the universal greeting given to foreigners – they enthusiastically
scream ‘hello mister’ in your ear every five seconds. To really
fear the locals whatever the case and advice everybody in the West not to
go is to measure everybody by the same yardstick. The only real danger in
Indonesia, as far as I see, is the nature and its devastating powers.
Tsunamis, earthquakes and exploding volcanoes are not unheard-off. In
relation to this you really have to be in the wrong place at the wrong
time; the probability remains insignificant and if you ask me it
shouldn’t direct ones actions or dreams.
In conclusion, Sulawesi is highly recommendable!!! If you can live with
mad driving, some exhausting and long travel days and possibly uniform food
at remote places, but also pristine beaches, several climbable volcanoes
and associated unforgettable sunrises, great diving/snorkelling, unique
cultural experiences, laid-back lifestyle and culinary digestion-boosting
food – Then YES!
And
perhaps the best of all: For sure, no tourist, just some very few
independent, intrepid travellers.
Future places to go in Sulawesi
The Taka Bone Rate
Islands and Marine Park
The world’s third largest coral atoll
The Tukanbesi
Archipelago
Superb diving, isolated beaches, stunning landscapes and difficult
to reach
The Banggai Islands
Whale diving. Takes A LOT of time and patience to reach. Extreme
remoteness
The Sangir-Talaud
Islands
Imagine laying on a remote beach watching a real volcanic eruption
and long red coloured flows of lava elucidating the night just some few
miles away
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– sulawesi /////
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