
Selected
JOURNEYS
"Travelling - it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller",
by Ibn Battuta.
Our journeys are bold and ambitious, and perhaps the flagship of this homepage.
Although we are also trekking and island nerds, our journeys are sorts of trailblazing travel expeditions which are unique, challenging and adventurous, and thus they epitomize our spirit within adventure.
Often, the regions, countries and places we visit during our journeys take on an exotic quality. What matters is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. Often, we might have to overcome a bit of hardship and logistical challenges since our journeys most often don’t run smoothly. This is all part of the fun.
In our view, a journey is something you would recommend to others. To us, what really matters, is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. We are not talking about the ultimate expedition, but to move away from the familiar, out of the comfort zone, where everyday situations and events take on an exotic quality.

Selected
JOURNEYS
"Travelling - it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller",
by Ibn Battuta.
Our journeys are bold and ambitious, and perhaps the flagship of this homepage.
Although we are also trekking and island nerds, our journeys are sorts of trailblazing travel expeditions which are unique, challenging and adventurous, and thus they epitomize our spirit within adventure.
Often, the regions, countries and places we visit during our journeys take on an exotic quality. What matters is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. Often, we might have to overcome a bit of hardship and logistical challenges since our journeys most often don’t run smoothly. This is all part of the fun.
In our view, a journey is something you would recommend to others. To us, what really matters, is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. We are not talking about the ultimate expedition, but to move away from the familiar, out of the comfort zone, where everyday situations and events take on an exotic quality.

Selected
JOURNEYS
"Travelling - it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller",
by Ibn Battuta.
Our journeys are bold and ambitious, and perhaps the flagship of this homepage.
Although we are also trekking and island nerds, our journeys are sorts of trailblazing travel expeditions which are unique, challenging and adventurous, and thus they epitomize our spirit within adventure.
Often, the regions, countries and places we visit during our journeys take on an exotic quality. What matters is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. Often, we might have to overcome a bit of hardship and logistical challenges since our journeys most often don’t run smoothly. This is all part of the fun.
In our view, a journey is something you would recommend to others. To us, what really matters, is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. We are not talking about the ultimate expedition, but to move away from the familiar, out of the comfort zone, where everyday situations and events take on an exotic quality.

Selected
JOURNEYS
"Travelling - it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller",
by Ibn Battuta.
Our journeys are bold and ambitious, and perhaps the flagship of this homepage.
Although we are also trekking and island nerds, our journeys are sorts of trailblazing travel expeditions which are unique, challenging and adventurous, and thus they epitomize our spirit within adventure.
Often, the regions, countries and places we visit during our journeys take on an exotic quality. What matters is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. Often, we might have to overcome a bit of hardship and logistical challenges since our journeys most often don’t run smoothly. This is all part of the fun.
In our view, a journey is something you would recommend to others. To us, what really matters, is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. We are not talking about the ultimate expedition, but to move away from the familiar, out of the comfort zone, where everyday situations and events take on an exotic quality.

Selected
JOURNEYS
"Travelling - it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller",
by Ibn Battuta.
Our journeys are bold and ambitious, and perhaps the flagship of this homepage.
Although we are also trekking and island nerds, our journeys are sorts of trailblazing travel expeditions which are unique, challenging and adventurous, and thus they epitomize our spirit within adventure.
Often, the regions, countries and places we visit during our journeys take on an exotic quality. What matters is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. Often, we might have to overcome a bit of hardship and logistical challenges since our journeys most often don’t run smoothly. This is all part of the fun.
In our view, a journey is something you would recommend to others. To us, what really matters, is to get away from the established routes and seek something that little bit more special and authentic. We are not talking about the ultimate expedition, but to move away from the familiar, out of the comfort zone, where everyday situations and events take on an exotic quality.
From Europe to the Himalayas along
THE HIPPY TRAIL
Part II
From Europe to the Himalayas along
THE HIPPY TRAIL
Part II
From Europe to the Himalayas along
THE HIPPY TRAIL
Part III
From Europe to the Himalayas along
THE HIPPY TRAIL
Part III
TravelTwins.dk
Exploring the less beaten paths of the world
- look, read, dream, travel!

Crossing beautiful Kurdistan part I:
NORHTERN IRAQ
Part I covers our travels through the fertile, mountainous and war-thorn region of Northern Iraq
The Kurds are one of the indigenous peoples of the Mesopotamian plains and the highlands in what are now northern Iraq, southeastern Turkey, northeastern Syria, northwestern Iran, and southwestern Armenia.
Between 25 and 35 million Kurds inhabit this mountainous region, making them the fourth-largest ethnic group in the Middle East.
From 1920 to 1923, an independent Kurdistan existed, but in 1923, the land was divided between what are now Iraq and Turkey. Since then, the Kurds have struggled to establish an independent nation, but they have yet to achieve a permanent nation-state.
We decided to criss-cross all of Kurdistan during a longer trip, thus crossing the Kurdish regions of Iraq, Iran, and Turkey.
Location: northern Iraq
"Why would you go to Kurdistan? Is it even a real country?". As we started planning the journey, these were the typical questions we would face. Knowing that Kurdistan is truly unique, we feel privileged to be ambassadors for this remarkable part of the world. We have traveled extensively throughout Kurdistan, and it is easy to see and sense that the Kurds form a distinctive community in the Levant and the greater Middle East. They are united by their culture, history, and shared identity, even though they do not have a single standardized dialect. They also adhere to a number of different religions and beliefs, although the majority are Sunni Muslims. Another striking characteristic is that they are—seriously!—among the friendliest and most hospitable people on Earth.
On the first leg of this journey, we start in Iraq, which is one of the most fascinating destinations in the Middle East. Iraqi Kurdistan, in particular, boasts one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, one of the oldest bridge and aqueduct ruins, several Neanderthal cave sites, and countless citadels, shrines, churches, mosques, ancient temples, and traditional bazaars. Combined with spectacular natural scenery—including the largest gorge in the Middle East and towering mountains—it became a photographer's paradise.
Continue to the second leg of this journey, where we venture into the remote, less affluent, and extremely rural regions of Kurdistan in Iran and Eastern Turkey.
More travel content on this region:
-
Crossing the Iraqi heartland: Iraq from North to South
-
Exploring Syria and greater Middle East,
-
Our travels in Saudi Arabia and the Red Sea
-
A long trip on the Hippy Trail through Turkey and Iran
Selected pics from this encounter:
(to see all photos, click Show More at the end of the gallery)

Criscrossing nearly all significant parts of Iraqi Kurdistan.

We started our journey in atmospheric Erbil, the largest city and regional capital of the Kurdistan Region in Iraq. It was a good place for arranging transport and planning the trip. Erbil is believed to be the oldest inhabited city in the world, since evidence suggests it is at least 8000 years old. Today, we found it to be quite modern and very prospering.

Located in the very centre of Erbil, and locally referred to as Qala Hawler, the citadel is a landmark building on top of a mound rising from the surrounding plain. It is a good place to stroll around and visited the inside mosque, palace, hammam, etc.

At the foot of the citadel the market souq spreads out as far the eye can see and beyond. We found this to be a great place to people watch.

Everthing can be bought here - even bicycles.

East of the citadel, we found this bazaar to be one of the most exciting parts of the citadel area. It has hundreds of stores and stalls selling wholesale and retail goods, food, materials, etc. as well as many kinds of fish, meat, fruit and vegetables.

This seemed to be the place where locals, mostly men, hang out with their friends. We found many good eateries and places for enoying a nargilah (water pipe). Sellers are hawking traditional street food.

When our friends and colleagues think of anywhere in Iraq, they generally do not think anything positive about the security situation. But the fact is that security in Iraqi Kurdistan is very good. Everyhere we saw soldiers guarding the streets and we encountered security check points on all larger roads between cities.

As in other parts of the Middle East, a favourite activity after work is to take a stroll, do some picknicking and/or to go to a restaurant and have dinner with family and friends.


It is hard not to love Kurdish cuisine. It is exotically laced with flavorful spices requiring various fresh herbs with an abundance of vegetables complementing lamb and chicken.

As a whole, the Kurdish people are adherents to a large number of different religions and creeds, perhaps constituting the most religiously diverse people of West Asia. However, the dominant religion is the Shafi'i school of Sunni Islam. In Erbil, the Jalil Khayat mosque is very pretty, offering associations to other mosques in Iran and Uzbekistan that we visited on other travels.

We hooked up with a local driver who would take us across Iraqi Kurdistan. During the journey we would pay for the gasoline as well as accomodation and food for the driver. Oh, a small fee for his 24-hour service as he would drive us wherever we wanted to go. It was an advantage that he knew how to take all the shortcuts and although he did not speak English (and our Arabic is very basic) it went fine.

Leftovers of Saddam Husseins tanks which he bought from the Russians and which was destroyed by local Kurdish militias.

Negotiating where to drive. We drove through the outskits of Mosul, but was advised to not enter the city as there as still extremists operating inside the city and bombings still occur.

All over Iraq are local farmers and vendors selling locally harvested fruits and vegetables. On a daily basis we would buy pomegrenades etc. for the many hours of driving and exploring the many different villages and sites.

Crossing over the Narh al Khazir river on Road 3 towards Mosul. The whole Ninveh plain is very beautiful with a mix of desert scenery and rocky mountains dotted with pockets of treets and many small rivers.

Also known as St. Matthews monastery, it is perhaps the most ancient religious institution in Iraq. It rests on Mount Alfaf, northeast of the city of Mosul.

The monastery is today one of the oldest and still functioning monasteries in all of Mesopotamia and it holds the final resting place of many patriarchs and scholars.

Today, the massive complex is home to just six monks, a bishop and several trainee monks and nuns. During the war with ISIS/ISIL, terrorists took over and destroyed some aspects of the monestary, but Kurdish militas wrested it back from ISIS/ISIL and monks and visitors returned again.

Prior to the conquest of Iraqi Kurdistan by Muslims in the 7th Century, the predominant religion of the region was Christianity with the Christian Kingdom of Adiabene located in what is today modern Erbil as its most famous center.

Throughout the year Christians belonging to the Assyrian Church, the Chaldean Church, the Syriac Orthodox Church, as well as other Assyrian Churches visit frequently for prayer and meditation.


The monastery maintains over fifty rooms, three halls and a church.

Lalish is possibly the most unique destination in all of Kurdistan. Our visit here was a cultural and religious experience that crawled deep beneath our skins. Lalish is a mountain valley, a city and a temple, and it is a holiest place of the Yezidis. At least once in their lifetime, Yazidis are expected to make a six-day pilgimage to the site. A chief sheikh, the Baba Sheikh, heads the religious hierarchy of the Yazidis, and the current Baba Sheikh welcomes us at our arrival!

Yezidis believe Lalish is where Noah's ark rested after the great flood abd life began anew. Every year, thusands pilgrims come here to drink the holy spring water flowing throughout the village. The entire place is a place of calming, serene and natural beauty. On the ground are several sacred places, amongst them the resting place for some of the important figures in the Yezedi faith that codofied much of Yezidi theology.

Yazidism is a monotheistic faith followed by the mostly Kurmanji-speaking Yazidi people. It is based on belief in one God who created the world and entrusted it into the care of seven Holy Beings, known as Angels. Preeminent among these Angels is Tawûsê Melek who is the leader of the Angels and who has authority over the world.

There is a great deal of controversy over the acutal beliefs of thie colorful and mysterious people. Some mistakenly call them devel worshippers which is far from true. The misconception derives from writings that speak of the opposing forces of light and darkess. Yezidis do not worship the darkness and believe that light will ultimately prevail.

Pilgrims come here to visit the tomb of Sheikh Adi and other sacred places. There are a few year-long residents of Lalish who are tasked with cooking food and maintaing the beauty of the place.
