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Into the remote Kingdoms of the
EAST HIMALAYAS

The last true illusion of Shangri La?
 
A 4x4 expedition took us across some of
 
the most mythic parts of the Himalayas.

Here is a note from one of our travel diaries:

 

"Today I woke up to the sweet sound of a puja, a three-metre-long ancient Buddhist trumpet, played by a young monk dressed in red, sitting on the terrace of a remote temple deep in the mountains.

Sounding like the song of elephants, the trumpet produced a long, deep, whirring and haunting tone that carried me somewhere beyond the highest Himalayan peaks and, at the same time, back into my mother's womb".

It cvontinues: "As the first rays of the sun softly touched my face, I opened my eyes and saw a massive mountain covered in lush green forests and snow.I then crawled out of my sleeping bag onto the wooden terrace, still wet with dew. Above us stretched a crystal-clear blue sky, monks sat meditating here and there, and in the air I could smell fresh bread being baked over an open fire..."

Welcome to the East Himalayas!

 

 

Locations: Bhutan, Sikkim and India's Northern Bengal, during 1 month


 

We are enormously fascinated by these ancient lands and old kingdoms. They are remote, beautiful and enchanting, probably among the last places on Earth where Mahayana Buddhist culture survives as an integral part of everyday life. We have visited the Himalayas several times, but this particular journey took us through Sikkim and Bhutan.

We started in Darjeeling, a beautifully situated hill station in Northern Bengal, spread like ribbons across a steep mountain ridge and surrounded by emerald-green tea plantations. A backdrop of jagged white Himalayan peaks floating above distant clouds can be seen from almost everywhere in town, and in clear weather we could see both Khangchendzonga and Mt. Everest. In the narrow streets, we encountered a fascinating mix of Himalayan peoples from Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal and Tibet. From here, we continued by 4x4 into Sikkim, one of India's smallest states, which was once an independent kingdom. Travelling overland was the only option, as there was no airport in Sikkim at the time. Nestled deep within the folds of the Himalayas, Sikkim is landlocked between Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan. Compared to much of India, it felt like the perfect antidote: few people, little hassle, a clean environment and crisp mountain air.

The culmination of our journey was Bhutan: the Land of the Thunder Dragon, as its name translates. This must surely be one of the most extraordinary, mythical, complex and little-known countries on the planet. We now understand why some Himalayan connoisseurs have described Bhutan as the last true illusion of the Himalayas. In Bhutan, traditional dress is still worn daily; fishing is discouraged by Buddhist beliefs; cigarettes were long heavily restricted; and many aspects of modern life arrived surprisingly late. Bhutan remained largely closed to foreign influence for centuries and only opened its doors to the outside world relatively recently. Since then, the King's policy has been to minimise outside influence while preserving the country's traditional culture and pristine natural environment. It is certainly not a cheap destination. At the time of our visit, we had to pay a visa and tourism fee of around US$200 per person per day to stay in the country. Yet Bhutan remains an extraordinary destination for adventurous travellers willing to pay the price to experience a society deeply shaped by Buddhist values and traditions – while it still remains one of the world's most unique places.

 

If you simply love the Himalayas and the Indian subcontinent:

 

 

Selected pics from this encounter:

(to see all photos, click Show More at the end of the gallery)

© Anders M. Pedersen & Jakob M. Pedersen. All photos have been taken by Anders & Jakob.

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