The Ø-dyssey
PART V

EAST DENMARK: A smogasbord of 18 pristine islands scattered around Zealand and the wild island of Bornholm in the Baltic sea

By circumnavigating Zealand one will find a smorgasbord of different islands of which 18 destinations really stand out.

Obviously, in the east of Zealand, Copenhagen dominates the landscape. It is the largest city in all of Scandinavia with 1+ million inhabitants. A few islands and island forts are located off-shore Copenhagen, and alle are worth exploring. Being on one of these islands,, Copenhagen seems very far away.

Outside Copenhagen, much of Zealand is quite rural, just like Funen and Jutland. The island is stuffed with lakes and smaller villages and hamles, and offshore and in the different fjords cutting into Zealand are many islands.

Far, far to the east are the island of Bornholm. It's part of Denmark, but the landscape and to some extend also the local tounge is more close to Sweden. It is a fascinating place to roam around.

 

Hiking and camping excursions to 18 unique island destinations off Zealand in Denmark & Bornholm

Starting at 12 o’clock North of Zealand, the remote and wildly isolated island of Hesselø lies in Kattegat Ocean. Very few people have been to the island or even know about its existence. Further southwest lies Sejerø with a mild climate and hilly landscape. Closeby is Nekselø, one of the most beautiful islands in all of Denmark with a wild coastline that calls for good day treks. In the Storebælt Ocean lies uninhabited Musholm which is a great day tour by kayak. Going south in Storebælt, two islands, Agersø and Omø are silent islands with idyllic villages that have kept their original preindustrial structure.

 

Next is the unique so-called barrier islands in the South coast of Zealand, comprised of Glænø, Ormø, Dybsø, Enø and Gavnø. The islands form a border between Zealand and the South Sea of Denmark are nicknamed the South Zealand Double Shore. These islands were formed thousands of years ago when the low lying areas behind them where flooded, and thus huge lagoons formed, today including the fiords of Dybsø and Karrebæk. The distinct island geography includes sandy beaches, salt marshes, reed marshes and beach meadows, and thus large bird habitats. Beach camping, long walks and kayaking are three key activities around these islands to enjoy the nature.

 

Further up north in Zealand lies two long fiords, Isefjord and Roskilde Fjord, the former almost 35 kilometers in length and Denmark largest of its kind. The two fiords have a number of very small islets, but two larger islands – Orø and Eskilsø - are nice to visit to enjoy the beautiful landscape.

 

Off the Eastern coast of Zealand, Præstø Fiord has a couple of small uninhabited islands in a wild natural setting – great for kayak trips. Further north, in the strait between Denmark and Sweden, there are two must-visit but very different smaller islands. Saltholm is rather large but uninhabited today. It has a very interesting past and history – perhaps the most unknown pearl very close to Copenhagen and not described by any tourist brochure. Getting to Saltholm is actually quite difficult. The other island is Ven, which is actually Swedish. It has been included in our Ø-dyssey due to its proximity to Denmark and because it used to be Danish before year 1660. The island is wonderfully idyllic.

 

Finally, the islands of Bornholm and Ertholmene lies far away in the Baltic Sea, to the East of “mainland Denmark”. The islands are made of granite rock, including dramatic formations, and has many natural and historical wonders. Perhaps Bornholm is the most touristy of all the islands in our Ø-dyssey, and also one of the geographically largest. But we could not resist the tempt of including this gem in our Danish island hopping tour-de-force.

 

Check out our other Ø-dyssey travel sites:

PART I: Tip of Denmark & offshore islands

PART II: Islands off Central & Southern Jutland

PART III: Islands in the Belts, North Funen, Ærø & Langeland

PART IV: South Funen Archipelago 

This part

PART VI: The South Sea Islands

 

Selected pics from all islands - part V:

Ø-dyssey part V
Ø-dyssey part V

Asterisks denote islands visited so-far, updated August 2020

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Hike to Bolund Stone Islet
Hike to Bolund Stone Islet

The vast Bolund Stone north of Roskilde in Zealand Island is a remnant of the ice age. The peculiar preserved iceland/peninsula of Bolund is an interesting geological phenomenon in the low waters of the fjord. The flora of the hill and the meadows is very exciting.

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View to Saltholm
View to Saltholm

A flat and very seldom visited Danish island located in the strait between Denmark and Sweden. The bridge to Sweden can be seen in the background

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Summer trip to Saltholm with RIB boat
Summer trip to Saltholm with RIB boat
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Arrival at Saltholm Island for a full day exploration
Arrival at Saltholm Island for a full day exploration
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Saltholm: Eiders were nesting all over the island
Saltholm: Eiders were nesting all over the island
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Walking around Saltholm island, a 15 km walk
Walking around Saltholm island, a 15 km walk
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Saltholm Island: Uninhabited, but old farm house is still standing for summer guests
Saltholm Island: Uninhabited, but old farm house is still standing for summer guests
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Saltholm Island: Swan nest made of sea weed
Saltholm Island: Swan nest made of sea weed
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Only toilet on Saltholm Island.
Only toilet on Saltholm Island.

Flakfortet island can be seen in the background

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Beach Sauna at Orø Island
Beach Sauna at Orø Island
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Orø Island sunset over Ise Fiord
Orø Island sunset over Ise Fiord

A very special and tranquil place in Denmark

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Baltic prawns caugt in Ise Fjord
Baltic prawns caugt in Ise Fjord

Baltic prawns, known as "fjordrejer" in Denmark, caught during foraging in Ise Fjord. They are quite easy to find using a specially designet net - a "rejestrygenet".

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Thatched house, Orø Island
Thatched house, Orø Island
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The Orø Island stone
The Orø Island stone
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Isefjorden (Ise Fiord) at Orø Island
Isefjorden (Ise Fiord) at Orø Island
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Contemporary art, Orø Island
Contemporary art, Orø Island

Of a pirate that used to roam the Ise Fiord thousand years ago

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View towards Zealand from Agersø Island
View towards Zealand from Agersø Island

During 8.30 AM sunrise in the winter time

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The old mill in the hamlet on Agersø
The old mill in the hamlet on Agersø
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Hike towards the south tip of Agersø where the lighthouse is placed
Hike towards the south tip of Agersø where the lighthouse is placed
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Agersø is branding itsel as "vandkantsdanmark"...
Agersø is branding itsel as "vandkantsdanmark"...

...meaning "the part of Denmark sitting near the water"

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The famous smoke house on Agersø
The famous smoke house on Agersø
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Hiking into the Hellehom Vejle Wild Reserve on Agersø
Hiking into the Hellehom Vejle Wild Reserve on Agersø
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Visiting Egholm Island north of Agersø
Visiting Egholm Island north of Agersø
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Hiking around Egholm Island north of Agersø...
Hiking around Egholm Island north of Agersø...

...during winter time. The hike can be completed in 4-5 hours

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Agersø island village
Agersø island village
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Ferry to Omø island in calm weather
Ferry to Omø island in calm weather

The small island is 1 hour south of Zealand with a slow ferry. Small place with a big nature

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Omø Island: Fresh fish at the small harbor village named Kirkehavn
Omø Island: Fresh fish at the small harbor village named Kirkehavn
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Omø Island: Few people and a curious dog
Omø Island: Few people and a curious dog
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Traditional fisherman's hut, Omø Island in Spring time
Traditional fisherman's hut, Omø Island in Spring time
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