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A month under the skin of
THE HAWAI'I ARCHIPELAGO

One of the most extraordinary nature experience across the Pacific Ocean and northern hemisphere.

Visiting the Hawai'ian Islands is a dream for many. Like Bora Bora and the Seychelles, they are known as one of the world's most captivating, exotic places, with a unique combination of natural beauty, diverse landscapes, and a rich cultural heritage.

 

It is a nearly magnetically attractive destination far out in the Pacific Ocean, in one of the last time zones on our spinning planet, but also a place that paradoxically—likely due to its connection to the USA—seems easily accessible and a popular destination for many.

We previously had several attempts to visit Hawai'i over the years, but the opportunity was repeatedly dismissed. We either had too little time available, or we felt that our children were too young for the level of activity we were aiming for.

 

Finally, the opportunity arose, so we cleared the entire month of January from our calendar and set off to visit four different islands. Our goal was to seek out the authentic Hawai'i and get under the skin of the islands.

 

Location: Oahu, Kua'i, Maui and Moloka'i, during 4 weeks

We start on Oahu, the island whose name comes from the Hawaiian words "o" (place) and "ahu" (collection or altar), which could be translated to "the place with the altar." This would make sense, as Oahu has been a central place for many cultural and religious ceremonies throughout history. We discover this right away, as not far from the capital Honolulu, one almost stumbles over traditional Hawaiian temples or shrines, mingled with royal palaces, Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, and Mormon churches. Oahu is a cultural melting pot that resonates with raw spiritual and meditative energy. We focus on hiking, beah hopping, snorkeling and visits to the many heiau, which are traditional Hawaiian altars or temples, often located in places of particular natural beauty, such as on cliffs overlooking the azure sea or looking down into lush green valleys. The finest consist of large stone walls and complex platforms, which were used for various ceremonial purposes, including offerings of food or animals, particularly pigs and dogs, to honor the gods. At war temples—called luakini heiau—human sacrifices were also made to strengthen prayers, atone for violations of the gods' laws, or prepare for war. During our visit, we witness that large quantities of fish, bananas, breadfruit, and handmade lei with fresh flowers are continually offered. 

Next stop is Kaua'i, the northernmost of the larger islands in the archipelago, which is a stunningly beautiful. Just minutes after leaving the airport in our rental car, we are surrounded by lush rainforests, deep canyons, and plantations of fragrant pineapples and papayas. The many tropical plants and flowers give the island an instant paradisiacal appearance, and it’s hard to drive in more than second gear, as we must constantly pull over to explore small trails that lead to hidden beaches, roaring waterfalls, and spectacular views. The island is almost like one big garden. Seventy percent is covered by national parks and protected nature areas that are only accessible on foot. Centuries ago, domesticated chickens were brought to the island by Polynesian settlers, and when Hurricane Iniki hit the island in 1992, many domesticated chickens were set free and mixed with the wild birds, resulting in the large population of wild chickens and roosters that roam freely all over the island! This creates a magnificent rural idyll and a relaxed atmosphere that perfectly harmonizes with the locals' diligent efforts to prevent any form of overdevelopment of the island's infrastructure and towns. If it were up to them, development should be put in reverse. On several hikes and road trips, we get to visit the Na Pali Coast, Waimea Canyon, and Koke'e National Park, which are incomparably beautiful, untouched, and worthy of preservation. One of the last days, we charter a helicopter that takes us into the center of the island to “the crying wall” on Mount Waialeale, one of the wettest places on earth. The enormous amounts of rainfall that the mountain receives, combined with a convergence of more than 20 waterfalls cascading down steep cliff walls, create the place where Mother Earth is poetically said to cry. 

Most people have probably heard of Mau'i. It is named after the Polynesian demigod and trickster Mau'i, also known from Disney's Moana. In Mau'i, we achieve a perfect balance between adventure and relaxation. We explore volcanic beaches, snorkel at Molokini Crater, and drive along the famous Hana Highway, which circles around the remote eastern part of the island, looking like a dreamlike volcanic landscape from Mars. Throughout Maui are a multitude of small markets serving locally produced coffee, fruits, and vegetables. The many food stalls and eateries serve local specialties such as poke, kalua pig, and loco moco. We visit galleries and craft shops that sell handmade jewelry, wood carvings, and paintings reflecting the island's beauty. The unique Aloha spirit seems particularly strong in Mau'i—everyone greets everyone, and we feel a strong sense of love, compassion, and respect for others. From the friendly greeting to the helping hand, everyone is always ready to make our stay as pleasant as possible. A particularly special experience is witnessing the sunrise from 3,000 meters atop Haleakala volcano. Standing in biting cold with thick fleece, a hat, and gloves, and at 6:15 AM experiencing how the first rays of the sun bathe the surrounding.

We finish our island hopping journey on Moloka'i, one of the least visited islands. The first thing we see upon arrival is a giant sign saying: “Slow down – this is Molokai!” Here, no one is in a hurry for anything, and the locals do their part to preserve their heritage and traditions. Moloka'i turns out to be a miniature version of Kaua'i with incredible natural beauty. Here are plenty of unspoiled beaches, lush valleys, and a dramatic mountain range running through the entire island, where we undertake several hikes. At the northern tip, we even visit a secluded former leprosy colony. It turns out to be the perfect place to end our tour, slowing down considerably. Although we managed to escape the large resorts and shopping malls on the other three islands, Moloka'i is something entirely special. For here, there are no resorts, no shopping centers, and almost no tourists. A perfect place for us, seeking peace and quiet before we head home. 

If the Unites States excites you check out our project to visit all of the 50 states in USA.

 

Selected pics from our island hopping adventures in this region:

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